1、Designation: D 4232 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Dress and Vocational Career ApparelFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4232; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case
2、 of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers the performancerequirements for woven fabrics for mens
3、 and womens dressand vocational career apparel.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable tocareer apparel fabrics that do not patently fit the categories in3.1.1.1. Performance specifications for such fabrics should beas agreed to between the purchaser and the seller. Thisperformance spec
4、ification is not applicable to overcoat ortopcoat uniform fabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It
5、 is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippa
6、ge of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Met
7、hod for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)3D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles3D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength
8、 and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic; and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorf
9、astness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorf
10、astness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 AATCC Gray Scale for ColorChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 AATCC Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flam
11、mable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method
12、cited shall prevail.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1983. Last previous edition approved i
13、n 2001 as D 4232 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.4AATCC Technical Manual, avail
14、able from American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Sec
15、tion D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 career apparel, n.garments, usually of a specifieddesign, for on-the-job wear by bu
16、siness or professional em-ployees.3.1.1.1 career dress apparel, n.career apparel which isnot generally subject to abusive wear and for which appearanceis a more important attribute than durability.( 1) DiscussionFabrics for career dress apparel are usuallycategorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or
17、 lightweight.The uses of these fabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesIHeavy-weight200 g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, suits, blazer, waiter-typejackets, vests, coveralls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 200g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2)Pants, ja
18、ckets, dresses, shirtsand blouses, gowns, smocks,lab coats, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Tops (shirts, blouses) anddresses3.1.1.2 career vocational apparel, n. career apparelwhich is generally subject to abusive wear and for whichdurability is a more important attribute than appeara
19、nce.( 1) DiscussionFabrics for career dress apparel are usuallycategorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight.The uses of these fabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesI Heavy-weight270 g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, jackets, lab coats, cover-alls, etc.I
20、IMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 270g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2)Shirts, smocks, aprons, labcoats, nurses dresses, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Light duty shirts, blouses,dresses, smocks, etc.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisperformance specificati
21、on, refer to Terminology D 123.3.3 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for terms used in this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for mens and womenscareer apparel shall conform to the specification requirementsin Table
22、 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this performancespecification.5.2 It is recognized that where more critical requirementscall for higher performan
23、ce levels, for purposes of fashion oraesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from thesefabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to allof the requirements in Table 1. One or more of the require-ments may be modifed by mutual agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier.5.2
24、.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4232except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements list
25、ed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified te
26、st methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in and applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in
27、the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force asdirected in Test Method D 5034, using a constant rate oftraverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with th
28、e speed of thepulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained
29、with the CRT machine and theCRE machine, consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine willprevail.7.2 Yarn SlippageDetermine the yarn slippage as directedin Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is being est
30、ablished, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of ends and picks perinch.7.3 Tearing StrengthDetermine the tearing strength asdirected in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of either Test Methods D 1424 or D 2261is permitted with existing requirements as given in this
31、performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the resultsobtained with the tongue tear machines and the Elmendorf machine.Consequently, these tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case ofcontroversy, Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 Pres
32、sing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in 4.4 ofAATCC Test Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) asagreed to by the purchaser and the supplier with respect totime, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanicalpressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen
33、(s) and calcu-late the dimensional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 ofAATCC Test Method 135.7.4.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724
34、.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after 5 launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure inAATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed to by buyerand supplier.D 4232 01 (2008)27.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall beas specified by the supplier.NOTE 5Launderable f
35、abrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent. Goods labeled “Dryclean-able” are to be drycleaned only.N
36、OTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due to launderingor drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change topressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimension
37、al change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100 D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.4.3 Dimensional Change in Drycleaning Determine themaximu
38、m dimensional change after three drycleanings asdirected in 10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724,orasagreed to by the purchaser and the supplier.7.5 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering, usingthe conditions agreed to by the pur
39、chaser and the supplier, or asspecified in 7.4.2 or 7.4.2.1 for washable fabrics, or afterdrycleaning as specified in7.4.3 for drycleanable fabrics (seeNote 8).7.5.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asdirected in AATCC Test M
40、ethod 96.7.5.1.1 The fabric smoothness (D.P.) rating of such fabrics,and the D.P. rating of drycleaned fabrics, shall have decreasedno more than12 D.P. rating from that of the fabric before it islaundered or drycleaned.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness and durable press
41、requirements are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change, color transfer, or durablepress rating, and to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or durable press rating.CharacteristicsCareer Dress ApparelFabric RequirementsCareer Vocational ApparelFabric RequirementsSecti
42、onBreaking strength (load) (CRT):Category I 267 N (60 lbf), min 312 N (70 lbf), min 7.1Category II 178 N (40 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), minCategory III 156 N (35 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minYarn slippage, 6-mm, (14-in.) separation:Category I 111 N (25 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.2Category II 89
43、N (20 lbf), min 89 N (20 lbf), minCategory III 67 N (15 lbf), min 67 N (15 lbf), minTongue tear strength:Category I 20 N (4.5 lbf), min 27 N (6.0 lbf), min 7.3Category II 16 N (3.5 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minCategory III 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 11 N (2.5 lbf), minDimensional stability:Pressing and fin
44、ishing 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 7.4.1After 5 washes 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.2After 3 drycleanings 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.3Fabric Appearance (see 7.5.1.1):Category I D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 min 7.5Category II D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 minCategory III D.P., 3.0 min D.P.,
45、3.0 minFlammability pass pass 7.6Colorfastness to:LaunderingShade change Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.1Staining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBDrycleaningShade change Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.2CrockingDry Class 4, minCClass 4, minC7.7.3Wet Class 3, minCClass 3, minCBurnt gas fumes2 cyclesShade chan
46、ge, original fabric Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.4Shade change, after one laundering or onedrycleaningClass 4, minAClass 4, minALight (xenon-arc)Outdoor (40 AATCC FU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minA7.7.5Indoor (20 AATCC FU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAPerspirationShade change Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.6St
47、aining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBOzone2 cycles Class 4AClass 4A7.7.7Chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A,min 7.7.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A,min 7.7.9AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D 4232 01 (2008)37.6 Flammabil
48、ityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammableFabrics Act Regulations.7.7 Colorfastness:7.7.1 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AAT
49、CC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (Note 7).7.7.2 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.7.7.3 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to crocking asdirected inAATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCCTest Method 116, for prints, or as agreed to by the purchaserand the supplier.7.7.4 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor drycleaning, in accordance with AATCC Test Method 23.N
