1、Designation: D 3992 94 (Reapproved 2006)Standard Specifications forFineness of Wool Top or Mohair Top and Assignment ofGrade1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3992; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision
2、, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 These specifications are applicable in the classification,by fineness grade, of the fiber in wool top,
3、mohair top, woolyarns, mohair yarns, wool fabrics, and mohair fabrics of theworsted type.NOTE 1For fineness specifications for wool, mohair, and alpaca, referto Specifications D 3991 and D 2252.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2130 Test Method for Di
4、ameter of Wool and OtherAnimal Fibers by MicroprojectionD 2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of AlpacaD 3991 Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair andAssignment of Grade2.2 Federal Standards:Official Standards of the United States for Grades of WoolTop, Section 31.1003Measurement Metho
5、d for Determining Grade of Wool Top,Section 31.3013Official Standards of the United States for Grades of MohairTop, Section 32.1004Measurement Method for Determining Grade of MohairTop, Section 32.30243. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 average fiber, diameter, n in wool and other animalfibers, the
6、average width of a group of fibers when measured ona projected image.3.1.2 fineness, nof textile fibers, a relative measure ofsize, diameter, linear density, or mass per unit length expressedin a variety of units.3.1.2.1 DiscussionThe fineness of wool and other animalfibers is expressed as the avera
7、ge fiber width or average fiberdiameter in micrometres (m).3.1.3 grade, nin wool and mohair, a numerical designa-tion used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed, and processed forms based on average fiber diam-eter and variation of fiber diameter.3.1.3.1 DiscussionThis specific
8、ation expresses the varia-tion in fiber diameter by means of distribution of fiber diametermeasurements.3.1.3.2 The term “grade” should not be confused with theterms “quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includesnot only fineness but also characteristics such as length, crimp,strength, elas
9、ticity, luster, tactile hand, and color, all of whichaffect the spinnability of the fiber and the properties of theresulting yarn and fabric. The Bradford designations, for whichno standards exist, use a scale similar to that for gradedesignations (for example: 64s, 56s, and so forth) and refer toqu
10、ality and not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designatinga particular combination of characteristics applicable to aspecific use or descriptive of geographical origin, breed ofsheep, or preparation for market.3.1.4 mohair, nthe hair of the Angora goat, Capra spe-cies.3.1.5 top, nin wool, a cont
11、inuous untwisted strand ofwool fibers from which the shorter fibers or noils have beenremoved by combing.3.1.6 wool, nthe fibrous covering of the sheep, Ovisspecies.3.1.7 For definitions of other textile terms used in thesespecifications, refer to Terminology D 123.4. Requirements4.1 The grade of wo
12、ol top shall conform to Table 1.4.2 The grade of mohair top shall conform to Table 2.1These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool andWool Felt.Current edition approved Aug. 15, 2006. Published Octob
13、er 2006. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D 3992 94 (2000).Replaces D 472 and D 1381.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, ref
14、er to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Federal Register, Vol 33, No. 248, Dec. 21, 1968, pp. 1907319076.4Federal Register, Vol 38, No. 4, Jan. 8, 1976, pp. 964967.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States
15、.5. Significance and Use5.1 These specifications are considered satisfactory for clas-sifying wool top or mohair top by grade and provide a basis foracceptance of commercial shipments.6. Test Method6.1 Test the material as directed in Test Method D 2130.Measure at least the minimum number of fibers
16、needed toattain confidence limits of the mean within 60.4 m at aprobability level of 95 % (see Annex A1 of Test MethodD 2130).7. Assignment of Grade7.1 Compare the observed average fiber diameter and fiberdiameter distribution, determined as directed in Section 6, withthe specifications for the vari
17、ous grades for the material beingtested in Table 1 or Table 2. Assign the grade that correspondsto the average fiber diameter and fiber diameter distributionrequirements specified in Table 1 for wool top or Table 2 formohair top. If the observed average diameter and fiber diam-eter distribution corr
18、espond to a single grade, assign that grade.If the fiber diameter distribution does not meet the require-ments for the grade to which the average fiber diametercorresponds, assign a dual grade designation, the seconddesignation being one grade coarser than the grade to which theaverage fiber diamete
19、r corresponds. Assignment of grade isillustrated by the examples in 7.1.1 and 7.1.2.7.1.1 Wool Top:7.1.1.1 Example 1Average fiber diameter, 28.10 m; fiberdiameter distribution; 30.0 m and under, 64 %; 30.1 m andover, 36 %; 50.1 m and over, 1 %: grade designation, 56s.7.1.1.2 Example 2Average fiber d
20、iameter, 28.10 m; fiberdiameter distribution; 30.0 m and under, 61 %; 30.1 m andover, 39 %; 50.1 m and over, 2 %: grade designation, 56/54s.7.1.2 Mohair Top:TABLE 1 Specifications for Grades of Wool TopA,BGradeAverage FiberDiameterRange, mFiber Diameter Distribution, %25 mand Un-der, min30 mand Un-d
21、er, min40 mand Un-der, min25.1 mandOver,max30.1 mandOver,max40.1 mandOver,max50.1 mandOver,max60.1 mandOver,maxFiner than 80s under 18.10 95 . . 5 1 . . .80s 18.1019.59 91 . . 9 1 . . .70s 19.6021.09 83 . . 17 3 . . .64s 21.1022.59 . 92 . . 8 1 . .62s 22.6024.09 . 86 . . 14 1.5 . .60s 24.1025.59 . 8
22、0 . . 20 2 . .58s 25.6027.09 . 72 . . 28 . 1 .56s 27.1028.59 . 62 . . 38 . 1 .54s 28.6030.09 . 54 . . 46 . 2 .50s 30.1031.79 . 44 . . 56 . 2 .48s 31.8033.49 . . 75 . . 25 . 146s 33.5035.19 . . 68 . . 32 . 144s 35.2037.09 . . 62 . . 38 . 240s 37.1038.99 . . 54 . . 46 . 336s 39.0041.29 . . 44 . . 56 .
23、 4Coarser than 36s over 41.29 . . . . . . . .AIn each grade, the minimum percent and the first maximum percent total 100 %. The second maximum percent distribution permitted for any grade is part of, and notin addition to, the first maximum percent.BThe requirements in Table 1 are the same as the Of
24、ficial Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool Top as promulgated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture,effective Jan. 20, 1969.TABLE 2 Specifications for Grades of Mohair TopA,BGradeFineness Range,mFiber Diameter Distribution, %30 mand Un-der, min40 mand Un-der, min50 mand Un-der, min30.1
25、 mand Over,max40.1 mand Over,max50.1 mand Over,max60.1 mand Over,maxFiner than 40s under 23.55 80 . . 20 1 . .40s 23.5525.54 74 . . 26 4 . .36s 25.5527.54 67 . . 33 6 . .32s 27.5529.54 57 . . 43 8 . .30s 29.5531.54 47 . . 53 13 . .28s 31.5533.54 . 80 . . 20 3 .26s 33.5535.54 . 73 . . 27 5 .24s 35.55
26、37.54 . 64 . . 36 8 .22s 37.5539.54 . 56 . . 44 13 .20s 39.5541.54 . . 82 . . 18 618s 41.5543.54 . . 77 . . 23 8Coarser than 18s over 43.54 . . . . . . .AIn each grade, the minimum percent and the first maximum percent total 100 %. The second maximum percent distribution permitted for any grade is p
27、art of, and notin addition to, the first maximum percent.BThe requirements in Table 2 are the same as the Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Mohair Top as promulgated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture,effective Jan. 1, 1973.D 3992 94 (2006)27.1.2.1 Example 1Average fiber diame
28、ter, 32.60 m; fiberdiameter distribution; 40 m and under, 83 %; 40.1 m andover, 17 %; 50.1 m and over, 3 %: grade designation, 28s.7.1.2.2 Example 2Average fiber diameter, 32.60 m; fiberdiameter distribution; 40 m and under, 79 %; 40.1 m andover, 21 %; 50.1 m and over, 4 %: grade designation, 28/26s
29、.7.2 Interpretation of ResultsThe true average fiber diam-eter of a lot of wool top or mohair top can be determined onlyby measurement of every fiber in the lot. Since this is notpracticable, reliance is placed on the result obtained throughthe measurement of a sample. The likelihood that the observ
30、edaverage fiber diameter correctly identifies the grade increasesas the average approaches the midpoint of the fineness range ofthe grade concerned, and decreases as the average approacheseither limit of such range. The probability of the correctness ofthe grade designation of a lot may be increased
31、 by increasingthe number of fibers measured.8. Conformance8.1 When the purchaser and the supplier have agreed uponspecific requirements for fineness, wool or mohair top that failsto meet those requirements may be rejected. Rejection shouldbe reported to the supplier in writing. In case of disagreeme
32、ntwith the results of the tests, the supplier may make claim for aretest.9. Keywords9.1 animal fibers (except wool); number grade; wool; yarnASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this
33、 standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five year
34、s andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committ
35、ee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 3992 94 (2006)3
