1、- NIL-O-q3537C 84 W 997770b 0394bOL 5 W % (- 24-05 distribution is /THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS 67, PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_- MIL-O-43537C 84 m 7777906 0374602 7 a 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. * 2.1.1 S
2、pecifications, standards and handbooks. The following specifications, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specific
3、ations and solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL * A-A-2 O 3 V-B-87 1 V-F-106 V-T-276 V-T-280 V-T-295 V-T-30 1 CCC-C-438 DDD-L-20 DDD-T-86 PPP-B-636 MILITARY MIL-C-32 6 MIL-(2-368 MIL-B-3 7 1 MIL-B-1860 MIL-C-3191 MIL-(2-10176 MIL-C-15062 MIL-P-15064 MIL-C-15065 MIL-C-16375 MIL-C-29137 * MIL-L-35078
4、MIL-C-43718 Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the Paper, Kraft, Untreated Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking Thread, Cotton Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Nylon Thread, Silk Cloth, Buckram, Woven and Nonwoven Label: For Cloth
5、ing, Equipage, and Tentage Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Purpose (Unbleached, Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard (General Use) Bleached, or Dyed) Cloth, Silesia, Cotton Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Braid, Textile, Tubular Buckle, Slide, Plastic Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Lining, 12 Ounce Cloth,
6、Gabardine; Wool, Polyester and Wool Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat Fronts Cloth, Wigan, Cotton Cloth, Felt Fabric Composite, Undercollar Loads, Unit: Preparation of Semi-perishable Subsistence Items; Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage Polyester and
7、 Rayon, for Pockets Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-0-43537C 4 7777706 0374b03 9 STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-191 FED-STD-751 MILITARY MIL-STD-105 MIL-STD-129 * MIL-STD-147 * MIL-STD-731 MIL
8、-STD-1391 - Textile Test Methods - Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Overcoats, Attributes Mens * (C
9、opies of specifications, standards, and handbooks required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) * 2.2 .Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specificati
10、on to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which-are DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issues of the non
11、government documents which are current on the date of the solicitation. * AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Copies may be obtained from the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) * (Nongover
12、nment standards and other publications are normally available from the organizations which prepare or which distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) * 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text
13、 of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or netwo
14、rking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- MIL-0-43537C 84 m 7777706 0394604 O m 3. REQUIREMENTS * 3.1 First article. When specified in the contract or purchase order, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.3, 6.2, and 6.4). * 3.2. Guide samples. Guide samples, when furnis
15、hed, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from this document may appear in the samples, in which case this document shall govern. * 3.3 Materials. Materials shall be as specified herein (see 6.5). 3.3.1 Basic material for overcoat. * 3.3.1.1. Class 1 overco
16、at. The basic material for the class 1 overcoat shall be wool, gabardine, Army Green 44, conforming to type I, class 5 of MIL-C-10176. * 3.3.1.2 Class 2 overcoat. The basic material for the class 2 overcoat shall be polyester and wool, gabardine, Army Green 44, conforming to type II, class 10 of MIL
17、-C-10176. 3.3.2 Basic material for liner. The basic material for the liner shall be wool flannel lining, conforming to MIL-C-3191, except the color shall be Army Green 280 and the colorfastness requirement to light shall not apply. 3.3.3 Lining. The material for lining overcoat and liner; for slide
18、fastener bellows piece and facing for lower pocket openings; for binding side and center back seams, edges of vent and back edges of front facing, lower pocket openings (when applicable) and neck facing of overcoat; for binding outer edges, vent edges, slash openings, sleeve and armhole opening of l
19、iner; shall be Army Green 45, rayon cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.4 Interlining for fronts. The interlining for fronts shall conform to type III of MIL-C-15065, except the applicable pattern parts listed in 3.5.1 of this document shall be used. 3.3.5 Collar and belt interlining. The
20、material for interlining collar and belt shall be cotton buckram cloth, natural or bleached, conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-438. 3.3.6 Undercollar material. The undercollar material shall be wool flannel conforming to MIL-C-15062 or a felt-fabric composite conforming to MIL-C-29137. The colo
21、r shall be Army Green 48. The colorfastness requirements to perspiration and crocking in both documents shall not apply. 3.3.7 Wigan for sleeve bottoms. The material for interlining sleeve bottoms shall be cotton wigan conforming to type I of MIL-C-16375. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproducti
22、on or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-43537C 84 7799906 0374b05 2 m MIL-O -43 5 3 7 C ( GL) * 3.3.8 Sheeting for inside hanging pocket. The lining for inside hanging pockets shall be a soft filled cotton sheeting, having a smooth suede finish on one side, dyed black or other
23、suitable colors in dark shades, conforming to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1: Weight per square yard (minimum) . 6.0 ounces Yarns per inch (minimum) Warp - 44 Filling - 40 Breaking strength (load-pounds minimum) : Warp - 60 Filling - 35 The dyed and finished cloth sha
24、ll contain no more labile sulfur than shown by the standard sample when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1, The finished material shall show “good“ fastness to wet-dry-cleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.1.1. 3.3.9 Silesia. The material for stay pieces and interlining of shoulder loops shall be cot
25、ton silesia, dyed black, conforming to type I of MIL-C-326, except that the non-fibrous material content and colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. cloth conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718 may be used. As an alternate to the silesia, 3.3.10 Sleeve head pad. The s
26、leeve head pad shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.11 Tapes. The tape shall be bleached or unbleached, preshrunk, conforming to type I, class 1 or 2 of DDD-T-86, except that the non-fibrous material content shall not apply, in the following widths: 3/8 or 1/2 inch for staying front edges 5/
27、8 inch for bridle at breakline of overcoat 1/4 inch for staying armholes, gorge, and vent of overcoat 3/8 inch for pocket welt 3.3.12 Braid. The braid for coat hanger shall be dyed Army Green 44 and shall conform to type IX, class 1 of*MIL-B-371. 3.3.13 Shoulder pad. The shoulder pad shall conform t
28、o type I of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.14 Labels. Each overcoat shall have an identification label, a size label, an instruction label, and a size ticket. Each liner shall have an identification and size label. and shall show fastness to drycleaning. The labels shall conform to type VI of DDD-L-20 5 Provided
29、by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_II_ MIL-0-93537C 84 7777706 0374bOb 4 W 3.3.14.5 Combination label. The identification label (class 1) and the instruction label (class 3) may be combined into one label. The combination label shall conform to
30、the requirements of the class 3 label. 3.3.15 Thread. 3.3.15.1 Cotton thread. The cotton thread shall conform to V-T-276 in the I following types and sizes: I Us e Type Ticket No. Ply 3.3.14.1 Identification label. The identification label shall conform to class 1. I Seaming and stitching overcoat I
31、A3 3.3.14.2 Size label. The size label shall conform to class 2. * 3.3.14,3 Instruction label. The instruction label shall conform to class 3 except that the text shall be as shown on figure 3 with the letters for caption not less than 5/32 inch in height and all other letters not less than 1/8 inch
32、 in height. The size of the label shall be 4 2 1/8 by 2-1/4 2 1/8 inches. 3.3.14.4 Size ticket. The size ticket shall be made of a suitable commercial cardboard and shall measure 2-1/8 by 1-1/2 inches. The size shall be printed on the ticket; for example, “36R“ with-letters and numerals not less tha
33、n-l/4 inch in height, together with title of document. Button sewing: Hand Machine 30, 50 70 IA3 or IB3 12 or 16 IA3 or IB3 20 3 2 4 4 NOTE: The cotton thread for basting shall be of commercial grade. A monofilament synthetic thread may be used for those basting operations where the thread is requir
34、ed to be removed, provided the garment is subsequently given a treatment by a dry-cleaning agent in which the synthetic thread is soluble. When this thread is used, any residue remaining on the garment after the dry- cleaning process shall be brushed off or removed. 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo
35、 reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-43537C(GL) L * 3.3.15.2 Polyester thread. Polyester thread may be used as an alternate to the cotton thread specified in 3.3.15.1. the following sizes of MIL-T-43548: The polyester thread shall conform to Use Ticket Number Ply
36、Seaming and stitching overcoat 30, 50 70 Button Sewing: Hand Machine 30 30 2 or 3 2 2 or 3 2 or 3 * 3.3.15.3 Silk thread. The silk thread shall conform to V-T-301 in the types, sizes, classes and manufacturing uses as follows, except the requirements governing weighting or loading shall not apply. U
37、ses Type Size Class Machine-made buttonholes I Hand tailored buttonholes II Hand felling III Machine type felling III Outside trim topstitching I - A and B 10 A r C A O 1, Subclass A or B - - - * 3.3.15.4 Nylon thread. Nylon thread may be used as an alternate to the silk thread specified in 3.3.15.3
38、. The nylon thread should conform to the following types ani sizes of V-T-295. (wraps) the button in one operation is used, the thread shall conform to type III, size ff, waxed physical and colorfastness requirements. If an automatic machine which sews and shanks Use Type Size Class Hand or machine
39、type felling IV Machine stitching VI Making buttonholes and bartacks V A and C 10 O A A A Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-0-43537C(GL) k 3.3.15.4 Color. The threads shall be dyed Army Green E. C.A. 66034. 3.3.15.5 Colorfastness. T
40、he dyed thread (except for seaming linings) shall show fastness to wet-dry-cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample. The thread for seaming of linings shall show fastness to wet-dry- cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the
41、 dyed thread shall show “good“ fastness to wet-dry-cleaning and light as applicable. 3.3.16 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinforcing buttonholes shall conform to type I or II, size 8 of V-T-280. 3.3.16.1 Color. The gimp shall be dyed Army Green E, C.A. 66034. 3.3.16.2 Colorfastness. The dyed gimp shall
42、 show fastness to wet-dry- cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed gimp shall show “good“ fastness to wet-dry-cleaning. * 3.3-17 Slide fastener. The slide fastener for the overcoats with liner shall be type IV, style, 1, size LS, with shor
43、t tab pull and brass chain, conforming to V-F-106. The length of the fastener shall be 84 inches for regular, long and X-long sizes; and 78 inches for short and X-short sizes. 3.3.17.1 Tape for slide fastener. The slide fastener tape shall be dyed Green, Shade X, Cable No. 66524. The dyed tape shall
44、 show fastness to wet-dry- cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample. 3.3.18 Buckle. The buckle shall be a 2-1/4 inch slide buckle conforming to class 3 of MIL-B-1860. The color of the buckle shall be Army Green Shade BR, Cable No. 62015. 3.3.19 Buttons. The buttons shall conform to type
45、II, class D; style 20 or 21, sizes 24-line, 30-line and 45-line; and style 15, 18-line; glossy finish, button shade Army Green BR, Cable 62015, conforming to V-B-871. 8 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-“ MIL-0-93537C 44 7977706 0394609
46、 T 9 * 3.4 Design. The design of the overcoat shall be: a double-breasted model, lined to waist, with a convertible collar, and an all-around belt with buckle supported by belt loops; lower welt pockets with a through opening, sleeve tabs, and shoulder loops to button; and a center back vent, lapped
47、 on the right. The overcoat shall be provided with a detachable liner which can be fastened into the overcoat. The liner shall be sleeveless, with all outside edges and edges of slash opening and armholes bound, worn with or without the liner. The overcoat is designed so that it may be 3.5 Patterns.
48、 Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government. The patterns show size, seam allowance, shape, shape and placement of pockets, directional lines for marking in, and include shapers for lapels, undercollar and undercollar stand, and marker for width of pocket welts. The standard patterns shal
49、l not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide for making the contractors working patterns, which shall be identical to the standard patterns. 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the overcoat shall be cut from materials as specified according to the pattern parts indicated: List of pattern parts Mat er ia1 Pattern nomenclature Cut parts Cloth, wool, gabardine Cloth, rayon, lining Front
