1、Designation: D1517 15D1517 18Standard Terminology Relating toLeather1,2This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1517; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses in
2、dicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.INTRODUCTIONThese definitions are divided into two groups: the first group covers general terms, and the secondgroup covers definitions applicable to sampling.The definiti
3、ons of general terms include some of those encountered by personnel concerned withspecifications and procurement of hides, leather and leather products by the Federal Government.The definitions applicable to sampling are mainly to be used in connection with the sampling for,and testing of, physical
4、and chemical properties.Terms adequately defined by unabridged dictionaries are not generally included.GENERAL TERMSalligatora general term used for leather made from the skins of all aquatic species with a grain similar to the american alligatorwhich cannot be killed legally and, therefore, is not
5、used by the United States industry.alligator-grained leatherleather of various types, such as calf, sheep or cattlehide embossed to resemble the grain of alligatorhide.alum leatherleather produced by alum tannage, usually in combination with other substances. Before the invention ofchrome-tanning th
6、is was the principal method of tanning with mineral agents.aniline dyed leatherleather which has been colored by transparent dyes as distinguished from leather treated by pigments orother opaque material.aniline finisha clear finish with little or no pigmentation.antelope finish suedeapplied to lamb
7、skin, goatskin, or calfskin, sueded and finished to resemble antelope.antelope leathera fine, soft leather made from an antelope skin, velvety in texture and sheen, sueded on the flesh side. Thisleather is so rare, that for practical purposes, it is virtually nonexistent.apron leathersany one of sev
8、eral varieties of leather used in connection with textile machinery and blacksmith aprons. Comberand Gill Box apron leather is soft, mellow, tough leather, tanned from steerhides, heavily stuffed and boarded or otherwisesoftened. Rub Roll apron leather is a flexible but firm, dry, strong leather.asp
9、ergillus nigerone of the most common mold growths found on vegetable tanning vats and on leather, usually greenish orblackish in color.automobile leathersee upholstery leather.backa crop with the head trimmed off behind the horn holes. (OZUP in Fig. 1.)bactericidea chemical that kills bacteria.bag l
10、eathera general term for leathers used in traveling bags and suitcases. It does not include the light leathers employed forwomens fancy handbags. The staple material for bag and case leather at present is leather made from the hides of animals ofthe bovine species, but heavy sealskins and goatskins
11、are also used.1 This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D31 on Leather and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D31.91 on Terminology.Current edition approved Dec. 1, 2015Sept. 1, 2018. Published January 2016October 2018. Originally approved in 1957. Last previous editio
12、n approved in 20102015 asD1517 10.D1517 15. DOI: 10.1520/D1517-15.10.1520/D1517-18.2 These definitions have been developed in cooperation with the American Leather Chemists Assn. (Definitions of Terms X1-1961).This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM
13、standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by
14、 ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1bark tannageleather tanned by use of vegetable tannins found in barks, wood, and other plant derivatives, as distinguished frommineral tan
15、nages.barkometera hydrometer used for determining the specific gravity of tanning solutions.Aspecific gravity of 1.000 is equivalentof 0 deg barkometer (Bk), and each additional degree Bk is equivalent to an increase of 0.001 in specific gravity.baseball leatherleather used for covers of baseballs.
16、The better grades of balls have covers of alum-tanned horsehide frontleather. Some cheaper grades are made of kip and sheepskins.basiluncolored vegetable-tanned sheepskin and lambskin.bateto treat unhaired hides or skins with a warm aqueous solution of an enzyme in order to remove certain undesirabl
17、enitrogenous constituents.beama convex wooden slab sloping downward from about waist height over which a hide is placed for trimming off excess fleshand ragged edges and scudding by hand.belting butta double back with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RUTS in Fig. 1.)belting butt benda double bend
18、 with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RRSS in Fig. 1.)bellythat part of the hide below the belly line. (VWPPin Fig. 1.) For steerhide leather, the belly line (RU) passes through a pointat or above the top of the rear break. For cowhide leather, the belly line passes through a point at or above t
19、he top of the frontbreak and a point not more than 212 in. (64 mm) below the top of the rear break.belting butta double back with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RUTS in Fig. 1.)belting butt benda double bend with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RRSS in Fig. 1.)benda back with the shoulder c
20、ut off at right angles to the backbone line at the break of the fore flank. (OYRP in Fig. 1.)biffto beat a salted hide that has been placed on a rack, in order to shake loose salt from the hair.biocidea chemical that destroys microorganisms (for example, bacteria, fungi) that can be detrimental to h
21、ides, wet blue, wetwhite, and leather.bisonleather made from hides of the American Bison, commonly referred to as the North American Buffalo, and not from thedomesticated Asian or Eastern Water Buffalo.bisulfitingthe treatment of hot solutions of vegetable tanning extracts with sodium bisulfite in o
22、rder to increase their solubilityand rate of take-up by hides.bleaching(1) the process of removing oxidized tannins and insoluble materials from the surface layers of leather, in order to preventcrackiness of the grain. It is performed by dipping the leather in a weak alkaline solution to render the
23、 tannin readily soluble,dipping in water, neutralizing in weak acid solution and washing.(2) the process of lightening the color of chrome leather by treating with synthetic tannins or precipitating white pigment inthe surface of the leather.bleedingthe transfer of materials exuded from leather to o
24、ther materials that come in contact with it.blockingthe adhesion between touching layers of leather such as occurs under moderate pressures during storage or use.blooma light-colored deposit of ellagic acid appearing on the grain surface of leather tanned with certain pyrogallo tannins, suchas myrab
25、olans, valonia, and dividivi. The appearance may be objectionable for some purposes, but bloom does not significantlyaffect the other physical properties of the leather.FIG. 1 Hide, Showing Various CutsD1517 182blueusually in the phrase “in the blue,” applied to hides or skins that have been chrome-
26、tanned but not dyed nor fat-liquored.Also referred to as blue stock.blushingdulling or mottling of the finish of the leather resulting from condensed moisture during the drying of the finish. Alsoreferred to as lacquer bloom.boarded leatherleather on which a false or accentuated grain has been produ
27、ced by folding the grain side and working theleather back and forth. Hand boarding is done with a curved cork board attached to the workers arm and rolled over the foldedskin.boardyadjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather.boil testtesting a piece of Wet Blue to check if there is area shrinkage
28、 after the specimen is submersed in boiling water for 3min. This is an indication of the degree of tannage.bonded leathera single homogenous sheet consisting of adhesives, resins or similar bonding agents combined with a minimumof 50 % by weight of leather fragments and fibers.box calf or sidessides
29、 or skins finished by folding with the grain side in and rubbing the flesh side with a cork-surfacedinstrument known as a hand board. Machinery is now also used. The effect is sometimes imitated by embossing. Also called“box” or “willow” finish.break(1) heavy leatherthe places, in the areas where th
30、e fore shank and hind shank join the body of the hide, where the textureof the leather changes quite sharply from the firm, close weave of the bend to a loose, open texture.(2) shoe upper leatherthe superficial wrinkling formed when the leather is bent, grain inward. Adjectives commonly usedto descr
31、ibe this characteristic are “tight,” “fine,” “loose,” “coarse,” and “pipy,” or “flanky.”bridle leathera harness-finished strap leather.brininga process of curing hides by soaking with salt solution (sodium chloride).bronzingexcessive concentration of crystallized dyestuff on the surface of the leath
32、er tending to give a metallic sheen.brush coloringthe application of dye-stuff to leather with a brush or swab, the leather being laid on a table. Also called tabledyeing.buck sidescattlehide shoe upper leather finished to resemble buckskin.buckskinleather from deer and elk skins, used for shoes, gl
33、oves, and clothing. Only the outer cut of the skin from which thesurface grain has been removed may be correctly defined as “genuine buckskin.” Leather finished from the split or under-cutof deerskin must be described as “split buckskin.”buffalo leatherleather made from the hides of domesticated wat
34、er buffalo of the Far East, not the American bison.buffingthe mechanical operation of removing a superficial portion of the grain of flesh surface with sand paper or knife in orderto produce a velvet surface or to minimize natural surface defects on the grain or flesh.buffing dustthe fine particulat
35、e leather fiber that is sanded off during buffing.buffing paperrolls or continuous paper coated with specially graded and treated abrasive particulates that is used to buff leatheron a belt sanding machine.bullhideshides from bulls are characterized by thick and rough head, neck and shoulders, and c
36、oarse flanks. They are often poorin quality and heavy, ranging from 60 lb (27 kg) up.burnishingsimilar to buffing but using polishing paper/cloths with no or very fine abrasives that produces a very smoothpolished appearance on the leather surface.butcher cutsdamage to hides caused by improper remov
37、al from the animal, usually in the form of cuts or furrows on the fleshside.buttthat part of the hide or skin covering the rump or hind part of the animal.cabrettaskin of hair sheep, originally Brazilian, used principally for glove and garment leathers. (See also cape.)calf leatherleather made from
38、the skins of young cattle from a few days up to a few months old, the skins weighing up to 25lb (11.3 kg). It is finer grained, lighter in mass and more supple than cowhide, or kip leathers.D1517 183cape, skin or leatherskin of South African hair sheep. Fine-grained leather, superior to wool sheep f
39、or gloves and garments.Loosely applied to all hair sheep, but should be qualified to show origin, if other than South African.carding leathera type of tannage of side leather used on the cards of textile machinery.carpincho leatherleather from the skin of the carpincho, a large South American rodent
40、. The skin is used in making gloveleather, usually chrome-tanned and washable. In the glove-leather trade, it is classified as a pigskin. It resembles pigskin inappearance, a characteristic being the occurrence of bristle holes in straight-line groups, usually five holes in a group.case leathersee b
41、ag leather.chamois leathera soft, pliable absorbent leather which is recognized in this country and abroad as being made from the innerside of a sheepskin, sheepskin or lambskin, known technically as flesher, the flesh split, from which the outer or grain side hasbeen split prior to tanning. tanning
42、 with marine oil.chestnut extracta vegetable tanning agent extracted from the wood of the chestnut tree and used in tanning/re-tanning heavyleathers.chrome retannagethe process of applying trivalent chromium salts as a secondary adjunct to the main tannage to impart orenhance certain leather propert
43、ies; usually applied after splitting and shaving.chrome tannageconversion of raw hides/skin into leather with chromium compounds, thereby substantially increasing strengthproperties and resistance to various biological and physical agents.chrome tanning liquorliquid basic chrome sulfate, with chrome
44、 concentration typically in the range of 10-17.5 % expressedas chromic oxide, and a basicity typically in the range of 25-45 %.coarse rough fiberfibers of flesh surfaces of leather or splits which are frayed, separated, and present a shaggy appearance.coated leathera product where the surface coatin
45、g applied to the leather substrate is in excess of 0.15 mm but does not exceedone-third of the total thickness of the product.cocklehard, firm nodules appearing on the necks and bellies of sheepskins.collagenthe principal fibrous protein in the corium or derma layer of a hide or skin.collar leathera
46、 subdivision of harness leather, made from very light cattlehides in full thickness, or of cattlehide splits, and usedfor covering horse collars.Colorado steera side-branded steerhide, not necessarily from Cber leathera steerhide leather, heavily stuffed and usually boarded, used in textile combing
47、bination tannedformerly, tanned with a blend of vegetable extracts. Today, tanned with two or more types of tanningmaterials, such as chromium compounds and vegetable extracts, or chromium compounds and synthetic tannins.cordovanleather made from the tight, firm portion of horse butts. It has very f
48、ine pores and characteristic waxy finish, and isvery durable.corduroy flesha rough condition of the flesh side of leather caused by failure to remove the twitching muscles.corrected graingrain leatherportions of the grain surface lightly abraded with emery wheel or sandpaper, so as to lessen theeffe
49、ct of grain damage. leather from which the grain layer has been partially removed by buffing to a depth governed by thecondition of the raw material and upon which a new surface may be built by various finishes.country hideshides taken off by butchers and farmers; their quality is usually lower than that of packer hides because they areremoved by less skilled hands and are not cured as well as packer hides.cowhideterm specifically applied to leather made from hides
